Climbing Big Overhangs with a Small Frame: Techniques for Petite Climbers

As a small frame climber, I've experienced firsthand how overhangs present unique challenges and surprising advantages. When I first started climbing steeper routes, I struggled immensely with the strength requirements and often felt at a disadvantage compared to my taller friends. While taller climbers might have greater reach, petite climbers like us often excel in body tension, flexibility, and weight-to-strength ratio once we develop the right techniques and strength for overhangs.

Climber applies a heel hook for the overhang.

Play to Your Strengths

We typically have several biomechanical advantages:

• Better strength-to-weight ratio

• Lower center of gravity for improved balance

• Greater core stability for maintaining body tension

• More efficient movement on compression-based problems

• Often superior flexibility for creative beta

Petite Climbers' Techniques for Overhangs

Master the High Foot

When climbing overhung routes, getting your feet as high as possible reduces the amount your arms need to pull. As a petite climber, I struggled with overhangs until I realized I wasn't using my feet effectively. Focus on:

• Developing exceptional hip flexibility for high stepping

• Practicing heel hooks at or above waist level

• Working on toe hooks to maintain body tension

Perfect Your Flagging

Flagging becomes even more crucial for us on overhangs:

• Back flags help counterbalance longer reaches

• Side flags can create stability when holds are spaced wide

• Practice transitioning between different flag positions smoothly

Optimize Body Positioning

With less reach, precise body positioning becomes our secret weapon:

• Drop knees to extend your effective reach

• Learn to cut feet strategically to swing to distant holds

• Develop comfort with campus moves when necessary

Addressing Limited Pull-Up Strength and Few Intermediate Footholds

I totally understand the frustration of trying to climb overhangs without adequate pull-up strength. Here are some specific strategies that helped me overcome similar challenges:

Targeted Strength Building

• Progressive Pull-Up Training: Start with negatives (jumping up and lowering slowly) if full pull-ups are difficult

• Scapular Pulls: Building the initial engagement muscles for pull-ups

• TRX/Ring Rows: Adjustable resistance to build pulling strength at an appropriate level

• Lock-Off Practice: Even just holding 3-5 seconds at various angles builds critical strength

When Intermediate Footholds Are Scarce

• Smearing Technique: Perfect the art of creating friction on blank walls—sometimes even the smallest texture can provide enough counter-pressure

• Bicycle Feet: Rather than cutting feet completely, practice moving feet continuously in a cycling motion to maintain some body tension

• Knee Bars and Knee Scums: Learn to wedge knees against features to create rests or temporary stability points

• Momentum Management: Instead of fighting gravity with pure strength, learn to use controlled momentum to move between holds efficiently

Creating Your Own Intermediates

• Thumbcatch Techniques: Using your thumb as an opposing force on underclings or slopers

• Bat Hangs: In extreme cases, hanging by your feet can provide a complete rest

• Palming: Pressing open hands against volumes or wall features can create crucial stability

Mental Approaches

When I felt stuck on overhangs, changing my mindset was just as important as physical training:

• Accept that progress might be slower on overhung terrain while building strength

• Break projects into smaller sections with visible improvements

• Celebrate tension improvements even if you don't send the route

Final Thoughts

Smaller frame climbers may need to put in extra time developing specific strength for overhangs, but our lower center of gravity ultimately becomes an advantage. I found that after about 6 months of focused training, overhangs transformed from my weakness to my strength.

Remember: the best climber isn't the tallest or strongest, but the one with the most efficient movement and smartest approach to problem-solving. And sometimes that means embracing the struggle of building pull-up strength as part of the journey!